Box building? Why? Today there are a TON of "Pre-Fab" enclosures...so why do a "custom box" *(enclosure)
Many reasons. Best reason is to cosmetically look correct (or better) than a simple rectanglular box stuck in your trunk!
No one is going to make you build an enclosure. Prefabs can be pretty good...IF you pick the RIGHT enclosure for
Lets start with the "basics".
All subwoofers are NOT created equally. Just because it is a 12 inch subwoofer does NOT mean it works in ANY
12 inch subwoofer enclosure!
This is a very complicated and overly discussed topic. For over 80 years manufacturers and hobbyists have discussed, debated the virtues of having enclosures, vented (ported) versus sealed versus bandpass versus transmission lines.
It is beyond the scope of this tech tip to discuss all the virtues (pros and cons) of each. We will keep the discussion to sealed versus vented
as these are the 2 most commonly used enclosures for car audio applications.
Remember there are 2 types of energy in car audio. Electrical, which ISN'T free, and acoustical – which is FREE. Typically no one complains to their retailer/installer that they got TOO MUCH BASS! Everyone complains about not getting enough!!! So let’s FIX that! Design and build better subwoofer enclosures.
1. Gain 3-6dB of output over sealed. Or
roughly the equivalent of having a 500
watt amp “act” like its 2,000 watts.
Vented Enclosure is giving you FREE energy
2. Better transient response.
3. Less current draw because you can utilize
a smaller amplifier.
These can be “OK”. BUT...the secret is don't get one that is tuned TOO high. Many of these prefab enclosures are tuned to 40 Hz. For most “mature adults
this tends to be too high and give you what is called ”1 note Bass” . Be careful!! Typically no one complains to their retailer/installer that they got TOO MUCH
BASS! Everyone complains about not getting enough!!! So lets FIX that!
Our MOTTO is - Design and build better subwoofer enclosures.
There are all kinds of ways to design subwoofer enclosures. Nomograms, charts, on-line design software, etc. But the BEST, most consistent software(and even
better).....FREE software has been available for over 10 years.
WINISD Pro (0.50a) website: http://www.linearteam.org/download/winisdpro/winisdalpha.exe
(NOTE: ONLY use WinISDPro 0.50a...NOT the newer WINISDPro 0.7!!)
1. Use 3/4 in or thicker MDF, or Baltic (Finnish( Ply (preferred)
2. When in doubt BRACE! Woofers can produce MORE than 10 pounds per square inch of pressure!
3. Always deaden the interior (if possible) with deadliner, DynaMat, Hush Mat, etc. Make the enclosure as "dead" as possible.
4. Stuff enclosures about 1/2 to 2/3rds full of polyfill. BOTH for vented and sealed!
5. IF there is a choice between vented OR sealed. For a normal human being...go VENTED!!!! At least in a car audio system. Home? Totally a different deal altogether. Sealed? You need 4 times the energy (power) to get to the same "output" a vented can get you. And some of the most expensive home speaker systems in the world...use vented enclosures!!
Remember it is ALWAYS easier to be able to turn DOWN a sub then to turn it up.
Above is a 0.4 SEALED (yellow lline) VS 1.0 CUBIC FT VENTED ENCLOSURE (teal line) Notice how the VENTED IS +9 dB
more output for every watt put into it!! Yes that looks like a peak......I get it…BUT in reality this is what you want from this software.
Trust me after designing 10’s of THOUSANDS of enclosures for dealers/installers/consumers. It REALLY works!!
Have you ever wondered...... why? Other than these woofers are "junk", or "garbage". What REALLY kills a subwoofer? Is it too much power? Too low power a subwoofer? Meaning the amplifer doesnt "match" the subwoofers power rating. What REALLY kills subwooffers???
Actually the person turning the volume control is the problem. NOT the power rating of the woofer or amplifier.